By the end of my stay in Sapporo, I was beginning to understand my friend Megumi’s advice. There had been filling bowls of soup curry and gamy lamb barbecue cooked on domed grills known as Jingisukan, for their resemblance to Genghis Khan’s helmet. There was a long, luxuriant lunch at Suginome, one of the city’s oldest ryōtei, a genre of restaurant that, not so long ago, offered entertainment by geisha and private rooms where businessmen and politicians made deals over elaborate dinners. This one still offers precise, flavorful food served on wood dishes made by Ainu craftsmen nearly 70 years ago, when the restaurant first opened. The showstopper was a two-and-a-half-pound horsehair crab, one of the glories of Hokkaido’s coastal waters, presented whole and then steamed and shelled.
Our last and favorite meal took place at Tempura Masa, which can be hard to find because it is tucked inside another restaurant. Among all of the country’s dining traditions, high-end tempura—flash-fried in sesame oil to achieve the lightest possible batter and presented as the centerpiece of a long coursed meal—is probably the least known outside Japan. Thirty-something Masayuki Murai, who gave up a shot at a baseball career to become a tempura chef, created a meal that encapsulated everything I’d come to love about eating in Sapporo. A whole smelt known as shishamo, about four inches long, encased in batter as delicate as frost, still haunts me. After serving a fragrant tempura of shiitake, Murai unexpectedly pulled out a bottle of Domaine Takahiko Pinot Noir, explaining apologetically that the winemaker permits him to pair it only with the umami-rich mushroom course.
Unsurprisingly, the meal ended with ice cream, served without toppings or garnishes. When I tasted it, I realized why. It had the grainless texture of ripe mango, with waves of flavor that surged and then ebbed on my tongue. Standing over us with the posture of a tired but victorious matador, Murai explained that the ice cream required 14 hours of simmering, then laughed to acknowledge that it was an absurd amount of time for such a simple dish. But also, I think, from the pleasure of having made something we’d remember for a long, long time.
Stay
For an onsen with a view, check in to centrally located JR Tower Hotel Nikko Sapporo. Royal Park Canvas Sapporo Odori Park comes to life after-hours with its buzzy rooftop bar. Outside the city, near Shikotsu-Tōya National Park, Kasho Gyoen is a simple ryokan with in-room onsens. In 2027 the Trunk brand will open its first Sapporo property featuring a spa and theater space.
Eat
Head to Noa Hakobune for locally sourced grilled seafood. Fine dining spot Cucina Italiana Magari spins Hokkaido ingredients into innovative Italian dishes. Stand in line for miso ramen at suburban Menya Saimi. At Tempura Masa, battered delicacies are served alongside an impressive wine list. The latter is just as worthwhile at Kamuy inside the Royal Park Canvas. For a long lunch, make for Suginome, the city’s oldest ryōtei. And don’t miss the shime sundae at Nanakamadou.
This article appeared in the March 2026 issue of Condé Nast Traveler. Subscribe to the magazine here.